How to Style a Brooch (Modest Outfit Ideas for Coats, Knits and Head Coverings)

I used to think brooches belonged in my grandmother's jewelry box. Then I pinned one of hers to a plain camel coat on a gray Sunday, and the whole outfit suddenly looked finished. Now I keep a small dish of them by the door, and they're the first thing I reach for when an outfit feels a little flat.

A brooch is one of the easiest accessories for modest dressing. It doesn't need a low neckline or bare wrists to show off. It sits right on top of the layers you're already wearing. Here's how I wear mine, where I place them, and how to choose one that looks fresh instead of fussy.

Why a brooch works so well with modest outfits

So much of modest style happens above the waist: high necklines, long sleeves, coats and knits. That gives you a lot of fabric to work with, and a brooch is made for exactly that.

• It adds interest without adding skin. One small piece of sparkle or texture draws the eye up toward your face.
• It dresses up basics. A plain turtleneck and a midi skirt look intentional with one pin.
• It works on every layer. Coats, blazers, cardigans, blouses, scarves and head coverings all take a brooch.
• It travels well. A brooch fits in a coat pocket, so you can dress an outfit up after work or before a simcha.

Where to pin a brooch on a coat

A coat is the easiest place to start because it's the layer people see most in fall and winter.

• On the lapel. The classic spot. Pin it on the left lapel, about where a corsage would sit, slightly below the collarbone.
• At the collar. On a coat with a stand collar or a funnel neck, pin it right at the closure so it acts like a top button.
• On a belt. For a wrap coat, pin a brooch where the belt crosses instead of tying a bow. It keeps the belt flat and looks polished.

If you're still choosing a coat, my guide to what coat to wear with long skirts walks through the lengths and shapes that pair best with skirts.

How to wear a brooch on a blazer

A blazer and a brooch are a natural match. I like a single pin on the lapel with a cream knit underneath for work, or a cluster of two or three small pins for a more playful look. Keep the rest of the jewelry simple, like small studs and a watch, so the brooch has the spotlight.

For more ways to wear the jacket itself, see how to style a blazer.

Brooches on sweaters and cardigans

Knits are where brooches feel the most relaxed.

• Turtlenecks. Pin it just below the fold of the neck, a little off to one side. It reads like a necklace without the chain. My turtleneck guide has outfit ideas to start from.
• Cardigans. Use a brooch to close a cardigan instead of buttoning it. Pin the two fronts together at the top for a soft, draped shape. This is especially pretty on a cropped cardigan with a long skirt.
• Chunky knits. Pick a bolder pin so it doesn't get lost in the texture. A tiny pin on a cable knit tends to disappear.

A quick tip: on fine knits like cashmere or merino, push the pin through the gaps between stitches instead of through the yarn. It protects the fabric. I share more care tips in how to care for wool and cashmere.

Brooches on blouses and collars

A blouse with a high or Peter Pan collar is begging for a brooch.

• Pin it at the top button for a vintage, buttoned-up look.
• Wear a pair of small matching pins, one on each collar point.
• Pin a bow blouse at the knot to keep the bow in place all day.

A silk blouse with a pearl pin at the collar and a pleated midi skirt is one of my favorite Shabbos outfits. If you love blouses, take a look at how to style a silk blouse.

How to wear a brooch on a headscarf, snood or hat

This is where brooches really shine for women who cover their hair.

• On a headscarf. Pin a small brooch at the side where the scarf is tied or tucked. It hides the knot and adds a finishing touch. Keep it light so it doesn't pull the fabric.
• On a snood or turban. Center a pin at the front for a polished, almost vintage look, or place it slightly to one side for something softer.
• On a hat or beret. Pin it on the band or just off center on a beret. It turns a simple winter hat into something you'd wear to shul.

Use pins with a secure clasp and a short pin so nothing pokes through to your hair. For color ideas, my post on how to match a headscarf to your outfit pairs well with this one.

Choosing the right size and style

Not every brooch suits every outfit. Here's how I think about it.

• Small pins (about the size of a coin) suit blouses, collars and head coverings.
• Medium pins suit blazers, cardigans and most coats.
• Large statement pins suit chunky coats, capes and heavy knits, where there's enough fabric to balance them.

For style, match the mood of the outfit:

• Pearls for Shabbos, simchas and anything soft and feminine.
• Gold or brass shapes, like bows, flowers, bees or leaves, for everyday wear.
• Crystal or rhinestone for evenings, weddings and holiday parties.
• Enamel or fabric flowers for a playful, casual touch on denim or knits.

Vintage and secondhand shops are full of beautiful brooches, and this is one accessory where an older piece often looks better than a new one.

Easy brooch outfit formulas

When I'm short on time, I lean on these:

1. Camel coat, cream turtleneck, charcoal maxi skirt, gold bow brooch on the lapel.
2. Navy blazer, white blouse, pleated midi skirt, pearl pin at the collar.
3. Long cardigan closed with a brooch, knit skirt, ankle boots.
4. Black velvet dress with a crystal brooch at the neckline for a wedding or holiday party.
5. Headscarf with a small flower pin at the side, denim skirt, sweater.

For more party ideas, see my modest holiday party outfits.

Common brooch mistakes to avoid

• Pinning too low. A brooch near the chest or waist pulls the eye down. Keep it near the collarbone or higher.
• Too much jewelry. If you're wearing a brooch, skip the statement necklace.
• Heavy pins on thin fabric. A heavy brooch will make a silk blouse sag. Save it for coats and knits.
• Loose clasps. Check the clasp before you head out. Losing a family piece on the way to shul is no fun.

The bottom line

A brooch is a small thing that makes a big difference. Start with one pin on your coat lapel, then try it on a cardigan, a collar or your headscarf. Before long you'll have a little collection, and your plain basics will feel brand new.

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