How to Care for Wool and Cashmere Sweaters (So They Last for Years)

A good wool or cashmere sweater is one of the nicest things in a modest wardrobe. It layers over dresses, softens a pencil skirt for Shabbos, and keeps you warm without bulk. It is also the piece most people ruin by accident: one hot wash, one hour on a hanger, one summer in a drawer with moths.

The good news is that caring for wool and cashmere is not complicated. It mostly comes down to doing less, gently. Here is the routine I use for sweaters, knit skirts and sweater dresses.

Wash much less than you think

Wool and cashmere are animal fibers, and they naturally resist odors and wrinkles better than cotton or polyester. A sweater worn over a shell or a slip doesn't touch much skin, so it rarely needs a full wash after one wear.

Instead:

• Air it out. After wearing, lay the sweater flat or drape it over a chair overnight. Most smells fade by morning.
• Spot clean small marks with a damp cloth and a drop of wool wash, then let it dry flat.
• Wear a layer underneath. A thin cotton or modal shell is easier to wash and protects the sweater from deodorant and makeup.

A sweater that you wear often might need a real wash every handful of wears, or a few times a season. The less you wash, the longer it keeps its softness and shape.

How to hand wash a wool or cashmere sweater

Hand washing sounds like a chore, but it takes about ten minutes of actual work.

1. Check the label first. If it says dry clean only and the piece is lined, structured or tailored (like a wool blazer or a lined skirt), take it to a cleaner. Simple knits marked dry clean are often fine to hand wash, but you take that risk yourself.
2. Fill a clean sink or basin with cool or lukewarm water. Never hot. Heat plus movement is what shrinks and felts wool.
3. Add a small amount of wool or cashmere wash, or a gentle baby shampoo. Regular detergent and anything with enzymes or bleach can damage the fibers.
4. Turn the sweater inside out and submerge it. Press it gently so it soaks through. Don't rub, twist or scrub.
5. Let it soak for about 10 to 30 minutes.
6. Rinse in fresh water of the same temperature until the water runs clear. A sudden switch from warm to cold can shock the fibers, so keep it consistent.
7. Press the water out. Squeeze the sweater in a ball against the side of the sink. Never wring it.

Drying: the step that makes or breaks it

This is where most sweaters get stretched or shrunk.

• Roll it in a towel. Lay the wet sweater on a large dry towel, roll the towel up like a jelly roll, and press down to soak up the water.
• Dry it flat. Unroll it onto a fresh dry towel or a mesh drying rack, and gently pat it back into shape. Straighten the shoulders, line up the hem and push the cuffs back to their normal width.
• Keep it away from heat. No radiator, no direct sun, no dryer. It may take a day or two to dry fully, especially chunky knits. Flip it once halfway through.

Never hang a wet sweater. The weight of the water pulls it long, and those stretched shoulders are very hard to fix.

Can you machine wash wool?

Some sweaters are labeled machine washable, often merino or "superwash" wool that has been treated to resist shrinking. If the label allows it:

• Use the wool or hand wash cycle with cold water and the lowest spin.
• Put the sweater in a mesh laundry bag, inside out.
• Use wool wash, not regular detergent.
• Still dry flat, even if the label says tumble dry low. It is simply safer.

If the label doesn't say machine washable, treat it as hand wash only.

Pilling: normal, and easy to fix

Those little balls of fuzz show up on almost every soft knit, especially cashmere and blends, in places that rub: under the arms, the sides, and wherever a bag strap sits. Pilling is not a sign that a sweater is bad. It is loose short fibers working their way out, and it usually slows down after the first few rounds of removal.

To remove pills:

• A sweater comb or cashmere comb works well on fine knits. Lay the sweater flat and brush gently in one direction.
• A fabric shaver is faster on thicker wool, but go lightly so you don't thin the fabric.
• Pick off a few by hand if it's only a spot or two.

Do this after washing, when the sweater is fully dry. To reduce pilling, avoid rubbing against rough bags or jackets with Velcro, and don't wear the same sweater several days in a row; letting it rest helps the fibers recover.

Storing sweaters the right way

• Fold, don't hang. Hangers leave bumps in the shoulders and stretch knits over time. Fold sweaters and stack them on a shelf or in a drawer, heaviest on the bottom.
• If you must hang, fold the sweater over the bar of a padded hanger instead of hanging it by the shoulders.
• Store clean. Moths and carpet beetles are drawn to body oils, food and sweat. Wash or air out everything before putting it away for the season.
• Use breathable storage like cotton bags or lidded boxes rather than sealed plastic, which can trap moisture.
• Add cedar or lavender. Cedar blocks or lavender sachets help keep moths away. Sand cedar lightly each season to refresh the scent.

What to do about moths

If you find small holes, especially in a sweater that has been sitting for a while, check the rest of the drawer or closet.

1. Take everything out and inspect it in good light.
2. Wash or dry clean anything that might be affected.
3. Some people freeze small items in a sealed bag for a few days to help deal with any eggs; then let them come back to room temperature before folding away.
4. Vacuum the drawer or shelf well, including corners, before putting things back.

Tiny holes can often be fixed by a tailor or with a simple darning stitch, so don't throw a favorite sweater away right away.

Fixing common problems

Stretched cuffs or hem. Wet just the stretched area with cool water, gently push it back into shape, and let it dry flat. Ribbing often bounces back after a wash and flat dry.

Shoulder bumps from hangers. Dampen the bump lightly, smooth it out with your hands and let it dry flat.

Wrinkles. Steam is your friend. Hang the sweater in the bathroom during a shower, or use a handheld steamer held slightly away from the fabric. If you iron, use the wool setting with a pressing cloth between the iron and the knit.

Slight shrinking. If a sweater shrank a little, some people have luck soaking it in lukewarm water with a bit of hair conditioner, then gently stretching it back while it dries flat. It doesn't always work, and badly felted wool usually can't be saved, but it is worth a try before giving up.

Stains. Blot, don't rub. Treat food and makeup spots quickly with cool water and a little wool wash. For anything big, oily or set in, a good dry cleaner is the safest choice.

Caring for wool skirts and sweater dresses

Knit skirts and sweater dresses follow the same rules as sweaters, with a few extras:

• Wear a slip underneath. It helps the skirt hang smoothly, stops it clinging to tights, and keeps the knit cleaner, so you wash it less.
• Fold sweater dresses rather than hanging them. Their length makes them stretch even faster than sweaters.
• Lined or tailored wool skirts are usually best left to a dry cleaner. Between cleanings, brush them with a soft clothes brush and steam out wrinkles.

The short version

• Wash rarely, air out often.
• Cool water, wool wash, no wringing.
• Always dry flat, never in the dryer.
• Comb away pills when they show up.
• Fold, store clean, and keep cedar nearby.

Treat a good sweater this way and it can be part of your fall and winter wardrobe for many years. If you are still deciding which fabric to buy, my sweater fabric guide explains the difference between wool, merino, cashmere and alpaca, and the winter layering guide shows how to wear them.

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