How to Style a Long-Sleeve Tee Under Dresses

Some of my favorite dresses were never meant to be modest. A sleeveless slip dress, a linen pinafore, a pretty floral sundress with tiny cap sleeves. For a long time I'd see dresses like that and walk right past them.

Then I figured out the simplest trick in my closet: a fitted long-sleeve tee underneath. It covers my arms and collarbone, it makes a summer dress work in November, and when it's done right it looks like the outfit was planned that way. Here's how I do it.

Pick the right tee or shell

The layer underneath does most of the work, so it's worth getting this part right.

• Fit. It should be close to the body without being tight. A slim fit lies flat under the dress, while a loose tee bunches at the shoulders and around the waist.
• Fabric. Thin, smooth knits are the easiest. Cotton jersey, modal blends and fine ribbed knits all slide under a dress without adding bulk. I save chunkier waffle or thermal knits for heavier winter pinafores.
• Length. Look for a tee long enough to stay tucked when you sit and reach. Nothing ruins the look faster than a tee riding up under a fitted waist.
• Sleeves. Full-length sleeves that reach the wrist look cleanest. A little extra length that scrunches slightly is fine; sleeves that stop short of the wrist look like they shrank.
• Opacity. Hold it up to the light. If you can see through it, it will show under a lighter dress too.

Most of us end up with a small "shell wardrobe" over time: a few in neutral colors that go under almost everything.

Choose your neckline

The neckline of the tee changes the whole feel of the outfit.

• Crew neck. The everyday choice. It sits neatly under scoop and square necklines and looks relaxed and easy.
• Mock neck. A little higher and a little more polished. I love it under dresses with a round neckline, because the two curves line up nicely.
• Turtleneck. The warmest and most dramatic. Perfect under pinafores and slip dresses in deep winter, especially in black, cream or camel.

A good rule: the tee's neckline should sit higher than the dress neckline with a clean, even line showing. If the two necklines are almost the same height, the tee can peek out unevenly and look accidental.

Under a slip dress

A slip dress over a long-sleeve tee is one of my favorite fall outfits. It feels a little bit nineties, a little bit elegant, and completely modest.

• A ribbed tee in cream, ivory or oatmeal under a camel, chocolate or black slip dress looks soft and rich.
• Keep the tee thin so the slip dress still drapes. A thick knit makes satin pull and cling in strange places.
• Finish with loafers, ankle boots or simple flats, and a structured bag so the outfit doesn't feel too much like loungewear.

If your slip dress is very slinky, a slip underneath (or a tee with a smooth finish) keeps everything gliding instead of catching.

Under a pinafore

Pinafores were basically made for layering. The open sides and low armholes need something underneath anyway, so you get to choose.

• A black or navy crew tee under a rust, terracotta or olive pinafore looks crisp and grounded.
• Stripes look adorable under a solid pinafore and add a little personality.
• A turtleneck under a corduroy or wool pinafore, with tights and boots, is one of the warmest modest outfits I own.

Add a belt if the pinafore is shapeless. It defines the waist and makes the whole thing look more grown-up.

Under a sleeveless or short-sleeve dress

This is where the tee really earns its place. Summer dresses suddenly become year-round dresses.

• Under floral dresses, pull one color out of the print for the tee. A blush tee under a floral with pink in it looks intentional and pretty.
• Under short-sleeve dresses, make sure the sleeves of the dress lie flat over the tee. Puffy or very structured sleeves can look lumpy on top of another layer.
• Throw a cardigan over your shoulders or carry it on your arm for cooler evenings. It finishes the outfit and gives you one more layer if you need it.

Color pairing that always works

You don't need a rainbow of tees. A few simple combinations go a long way:

• Tone on tone. Cream under camel, blush under rose, gray under charcoal. Soft and elegant.
• Dark under bright. Black or navy under terracotta, mustard or red. Bold but still simple.
• Light under dark. Ivory or white under black, brown or navy. Fresh and classic.
• Pulled from the print. Pick one shade from a patterned dress and match the tee to it.

If you're not sure, start with black, cream and one soft color you love. Those three will cover most dresses you own.

Wearing it through the seasons

• Spring and summer. Choose lightweight cotton or modal tees in lighter colors, with sandals or flats. Cotton tends to breathe better on warm days than synthetics.
• Fall. Move to ribbed knits and mock necks, deeper colors, and add tights and loafers or ankle boots.
• Winter. Turtlenecks and thicker knits under wool or corduroy pinafores, with opaque tights, boots and a long coat.

The same dress can carry you through all four. Only the layers around it change.

Common mistakes to skip

• A tee that's too loose. It bunches and makes the dress look lumpy. Go fitted.
• Necklines that compete. Two similar necklines at almost the same height look messy. Go higher or keep a clear gap.
• Bulky fabric under a drapey dress. Thick knits under satin or chiffon pull the dress out of shape.
• Sleeves that are too short. Wrist-length or slightly longer looks finished. Three-quarter sleeves under a sleeveless dress can look like a mistake.
• Visible seams or tags. Check the back of the neck. A tag sticking out above a dress is easy to miss in the mirror.

FAQ

Can I wear a long-sleeve tee under a dress for Shabbos or a simcha?

Yes, if the tee is dressy enough. A smooth, fine-knit shell or a silky long-sleeve top in a matching or tonal color looks much more polished than a casual cotton tee.

What color tee goes with everything?

For me it's a tie between black and cream. Black grounds bright colors, and cream softens dark ones.

How do I keep the tee from riding up?

Choose a longer length, tuck it into your tights or a slip, or wear a fitted bodysuit-style shell that stays in place.

Is it okay if the tee shows at the sides of a pinafore?

Absolutely. That's part of the look. Just make sure the color works with the dress, since you'll see more of it than you think.

A good long-sleeve tee is one of the most useful things I own. It turns dresses I'd otherwise skip into dresses I wear every week, and it means I can buy what I love instead of only what's already modest. Start with one in black and one in cream, and see how many dresses come back into your rotation.

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